Explore one of the best bouldering sites in the world at Hueco Tanks State Park, in West Texas. This region holds some of the most famous bouldering problems in the country and is also a precious treasure of ancient Native American rock art. Each trip to Hueco involves a delightful hunt for the famous "masks".
Many things have changed in Hueco since the first edition in 2004: the discovery of new rock art sites has led to access modifications, new accommodations are available, and new problems abound! This comprehensive guide covers 850 problems on North Mountain, unguided routes (200 new problems since the last edition).
For the guided-only areas (West Mountain, East Mountain, and East Spur), a "greatest-hits" section of over 20 pages, complete with remarkable maps and images, is also included. We also include a comprehensive guide to navigating the park regulations and the guided tour system so you can make the most of your visit.
Jason Kehl has made incredible efforts to update and enhance the original work of Matt Wilder for this new edition!
Specifications
- Author: Matt Wilder & Jason Kehl
- Publisher: Wolverine Publishing
- Publication Year: 2020
- Edition: 2nd
- Number of Pages: 308 in color
Regions Covered
- North Slope - 9 areas
- Front Side - 7 areas
- Eastern Slope - 4 areas
- Top of the Chains - 5 areas
- Summit Plateau - 4 areas
- Southern Slope - 2 areas
- "The Backcountry" - over 20 pages of the best problems
Features
- $1 from each book sold is donated to the Hueco Tanks Climbers Coalition
- Durable sewn binding
- Unique schematic maps obtained by drone
- Color photos of almost every boulder
- Routes color-coded by difficulty
- Cultural and climbing history of the park
- Essential tips on accommodation, amenities, logistics
- Essays by John Sherman, the late Todd Skinner, Fred Nicole, Ashima Shiraishi, Bronson MacDonald, Sam Davis, and Thomasina Pidgeon
- Action photos by Andy Mann, Gustavo Moser, Merrick Ales, John Wesely, Jim Thornburg, Boone Speed, Sandra Studer, Colette McInerney, and more
About the Authors
Jason Kehl has been practicing bouldering at Hueco since 1996. His national achievements include his first ascent of the famous Evilution (V12, 2002) in the Buttermilks and the first bouldering ascent of The Fly (5.14d, 2003) at Rumney. Since then, he has completed difficult first ascents from Japan to Peru, across Europe and the United States, notably The Seventh Circle (V14) at Hueco. Jason is also known for his creation of unusual art. He has been making holds for SoIll for 20 years and has designed over 10 gyms, including the one in Englewood, CO, Earth Treks, one of the largest in the country. He now lives in El Paso with the lovely Martina Mali and their adorable daughter Eva Luna and their son Luka Von. When he is not writing guides, he continues to make holds, design gyms, and create videos while exploring the endless potential of Hueco Tanks.
Matt Wilder grew up in New England and honed his skills over many seasons spent at Hueco in the late 1990s and early 2000s. In 2004, he wrote the first edition of this guide, which documented hundreds of new classic problems. Bandersnatch (V13) is one of his best first ascents at Hueco, and he is a true all-rounder, with first ascents in 5.14 R, the first free solo ascent of Moonlight Buttress (V, 5.12d) in Zion, and several El Cap ascents in a single day. Matt completed a Ph.D. in computer science at the University of Colorado at Boulder and currently runs a small consulting company specializing in artificial intelligence and machine learning. Outside of work and climbing, Matt has appeared several times on the popular television show American Ninja Warrior, including during some of the series' most exciting moments. Living in Boulder, CO, since 2006, he still travels to Hueco regularly, although now much of the climbing is done with his son Bayes, who recently climbed his first 5.14, Rodeo Free Europe, at the age of 10.